Care Guide6 min read

Eastern Long-Neck Turtle

Chelodina longicollis

Long-Necked Turtle · Eastern Snake-Necked Turtle

Eastern Long-neck Turtle Care Guide
Lifespan
20-50+ years
Adult Size
15-26cm
Care Level
Medium to High
Diet

Carnivorous diet of live and frozen invertebrates and feeder fish

Enclosure

Large aquarium or outdoor pond (minimum 300 litres) with powerful external filtration, a dry basking platform, heat lamp and T5 UVB lighting

Temperament

Generally calm and non-aggressive, though Eastern Long-Necks are observation animals rather than interactive pets

Where they come from

Natural History & Origin

The Eastern Long-Neck Turtle is native to the Murray-Darling Basin and coastal drainages of southeastern Australia, with a natural range spanning New South Wales, Victoria, Queensland and South Australia. They inhabit slow-moving rivers, lakes, wetlands, swamps, seasonal floodplains and farm dams, where they are active hunters of fish, aquatic invertebrates, tadpoles and small frogs.

Despite being primarily aquatic, Eastern Long-Necks are well known for their remarkable capacity for overland travel — during drought, when water sources dry up, or during breeding season, individuals can travel considerable distances across land in search of new water bodies. Their extraordinarily long neck — which can equal or exceed the length of the shell itself — is used as a rapid strike mechanism when hunting. When threatened, they fold this neck sideways against the body (not straight back), earning them the classification of 'side-necked' turtles. They are also well known for producing a potent, unpleasant musk as a defence mechanism.

Get it right early

Tips for First-Time Owners

  1. 1 Invest in the best canister filter you can afford — water quality is the foundation of turtle health, and an undersized or poor-quality filter is the single most common cause of illness in captive turtles.
  2. 2 Test water parameters weekly — ammonia and nitrite spikes can cause serious illness very quickly and may not be visible to the eye.
  3. 3 Replace the UVB lamp annually on schedule — UVB output degrades long before the bulb visibly fails, and insufficient UVB leads to metabolic bone disease and shell problems over time.
  4. 4 Wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after every interaction with your turtle, its enclosure or its water — turtles can carry Salmonella without showing any signs.
  5. 5 Obtain the appropriate fauna keeper licence for your state before purchasing and source animals only from a licensed captive breeder.
Setting up the habitat

Enclosure & Husbandry

Eastern Long-Neck Turtles are primarily aquatic and require a generously sized, well-maintained aquatic environment. A single adult requires a minimum aquarium of 120 cm L × 50 cm W × 50 cm H — approximately 300 litres — with a water depth of at least 30–40 cm, sufficient for the turtle to swim and turn freely.

A dry basking platform accessible via a ramp and occupying approximately 25% of the surface area is essential — turtles must be able to fully dry out under a heat source. The basking spot should reach 30–35 °C under a heat lamp. A T5 10% UVB lamp positioned to illuminate the basking platform is non-negotiable and must be replaced annually, even if it still appears to emit visible light, as UVB output degrades before visual output fails. Water temperature should be maintained between 20–26 °C using a submersible aquarium heater with a protective guard to prevent contact burns.

A powerful external canister filter rated to at least double the tank volume is essential — turtles produce considerable waste, and an undersized filter leads rapidly to water quality decline. Perform 25–30% water changes weekly and test water parameters regularly. Substrate options include fine river sand or bare-bottom glass — the latter is easier to clean and maintain. Submerged hides, smooth rocks and aquatic plants complete the setup. An outdoor pond is an excellent long-term option in temperate climates, providing natural UVB exposure and a richer, more stimulating environment.

What to feed

Dietary Management

Eastern Long-Neck Turtles are active hunters and benefit from a varied, stimulating diet that includes a range of prey types. Suitable food items include live or frozen feeder fish (such as small rosy barbs or gudgeons), freshwater yabbies and shrimp, earthworms, live or frozen bloodworms, and occasional lean prawns. High-quality commercial turtle pellets can form part of the diet occasionally but should not be a primary food source; variety is essential for long-term health.

All feeding takes place in the water, as Eastern Long-Necks feed exclusively underwater. Feed juveniles daily; adults three to five times per week. Prey size should be manageable — turtles are messy eaters and oversized items increase waste in the enclosure. Remove uneaten food promptly to protect water quality. Live insects can be dusted with a calcium powder to supplement their nutritional intake. Fresh, dechlorinated water must be maintained at all times.

Day-to-day interaction

Handling & Socialisation

Handling should be kept to an absolute minimum — turtles are aquatic animals and time out of water is stressful. When handling is necessary for health checks, transport or enclosure maintenance, support the shell firmly from both sides. Be aware of the neck reach — Eastern Long-Necks are capable of striking with surprising speed and distance. Children must always be supervised during any contact with turtles and must wash hands thoroughly immediately afterwards, as turtles can carry Salmonella bacteria without showing any signs of illness.

Most individuals become more confident over time and will approach the front of their enclosure at feeding time. When threatened or handled, they may release a strong, persistent musk — this is a natural defence mechanism, not a sign of illness. Biting is uncommon in settled animals but possible if the turtle is stressed or handled roughly; their bite is strong and the long neck allows them to reach further than expected.

Did you know

Fun Facts

The Eastern Long-Neck Turtle belongs to the suborder Pleurodira — the 'side-necked' turtles — which fold the neck sideways rather than retracting straight back into the shell. This is a fundamental anatomical distinction from Northern Hemisphere turtle species.

They can absorb oxygen from the water through highly vascularised membranes in their cloaca — a process known as cloacal bursae breathing — allowing them to remain submerged for extended periods, or even survive buried in mud during drought.

During periods of drought or when searching for a new waterhole, Eastern Long-Necks are capable of travelling several kilometres overland — a remarkable feat for a primarily aquatic animal.

Keep them stimulated

Enrichment

Eastern Long-Neck Turtles benefit most from a rich, naturalistic aquatic environment rather than direct interaction. Submerged hides — large PVC pipe elbows, smooth flat rocks, or purpose-made turtle caves — provide refuge and encourage natural shelter-seeking behaviour. Live or artificial aquatic plants offer visual complexity and cover. Varying the types of food items offered — live yabbies, feeder fish, bloodworms — stimulates natural hunting behaviour and prevents dietary monotony.

A floating platform, cork bark, or other surface objects provide additional areas for basking and surface exploration. If housed in an outdoor pond, natural sunlight, seasonal variation, insects landing on the water surface and the presence of live aquatic invertebrates provide a level of environmental enrichment that cannot be replicated indoors. Regular gentle water flow from a filter outlet or air stone also enriches the aquatic environment.

What to watch for

Common Health Issues

Shell rot (ulcerative shell disease) is a bacterial or fungal infection causing soft, discoloured or pitted areas on the carapace or plastron — almost always linked to poor water quality or physical injury. Maintain excellent water quality and seek veterinary treatment promptly if signs are detected. Respiratory infections present as wheezing, asymmetric floating or tilting to one side in the water, and typically result from cold water temperatures or draughts — maintain water temperature within the correct range and consult a reptile vet.

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is caused by insufficient calcium, inadequate UVB exposure, or an imbalanced calcium-to-phosphorus ratio. In turtles, MBD manifests as soft, deformed or pyramiding shell, weakened limbs and lethargy. Prevention requires consistent access to quality UVB lighting, a varied calcium-rich diet, and regular calcium supplementation.

Vitamin A deficiency leads to swollen eyelids and lethargy; ensure dietary variety and consider supplementation under veterinary guidance. Internal parasites are common in newly acquired animals — a faecal test performed by a reptile vet at the first health check is strongly recommended. Salmonella can be carried by turtles without visible signs of illness — strict hand hygiene after any contact with the animal, the enclosure or the water is essential and non-negotiable, particularly in households with young children.

Everything you need

Essentials Shopping List

Setup checklist

  • Large aquarium — minimum 300 litres / 120 × 50 × 50 cm for one adult
  • External canister filter (rated to minimum 2× tank volume)
  • Submersible aquarium heater with protective guard
  • Thermometer (water temperature)
  • Dry basking platform with access ramp
  • Basking heat lamp and dome fitting
  • Surface thermometer or temperature gun (basking spot)
  • T5 10% UVB lamp and fitting
  • Lighting timer
  • Water quality test kit (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH)
  • Water conditioner/dechlorinator
  • Siphon or gravel vacuum (for water changes)
  • Fine river sand or bare-bottom setup
  • Submerged hides (PVC elbows or flat rocks)
  • Aquatic plants (live or artificial)
  • Feeder fish supply or frozen bloodworms
  • Reptile-safe aquarium disinfectant
  • Fauna keeper licence (state-specific)
FAQ

Commonly Asked Questions

  • How often should I change the water?

    A 25–30% water change weekly is the minimum recommended. A high-quality canister filter reduces waste accumulation but does not replace water changes. If water parameters begin rising between changes, increase the frequency.

  • Can I keep a long-neck turtle in an outdoor pond?

    Yes — an outdoor pond in a temperate Australian climate can be an excellent long-term setup. Ensure the pond is secure from predators such as birds, cats and dogs, provides adequate depth for swimming, includes a safe basking area, and allows escape prevention.

  • My turtle hasn't eaten in over a week — should I be concerned?

    Turtles may refuse food when stressed by a new environment, if water temperature is too low, or when unwell. If refusal persists beyond two to three weeks, consult a reptile vet.

  • Do turtles carry diseases that can affect people?

    Turtles can carry Salmonella bacteria without any visible signs of illness. Always wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling turtles or working in their enclosure, and ensure children do the same. Never allow children to place their hands near their mouth after handling.

  • Is a licence required to keep an Eastern Long-Neck Turtle in Australia?

    Yes. A fauna keeper licence is required in all states and territories. Requirements and fees vary — contact your state wildlife authority for current details.

Need help?

Our specialists are in-store every day to help with setup, licensing and feeding.

Visit Kellyville Pets →