Australian Millipede

Millipedes are found throughout Australia in habitats with sufficient moisture and decaying organic matter — from the tropical and subtropical rainforests and wet sclerophyll forests of Queensland and northern NSW (where the largest species occur) to drier woodlands and urban gardens in temperate regions. They are detritivores: living decomposers that feed on decaying leaves, rotting wood and other organic material, playing a critical role in nutrient cycling in forest ecosystems.

Millipedes move slowly and deliberately and are primarily nocturnal, spending daylight hours in burrows or under bark and leaf litter. When threatened they coil into a tight spiral, protecting the vulnerable legs and underside within the hardened outer surface of the coiled body. Most species also secrete a defensive chemical from glands along the body segments (quinones, benzoquinones, hydrogen cyanide in some species) that deters many predators.

Australian millipedes can be kept without a licence in most states as they are not wildlife-listed in the same manner as vertebrates. Confirm requirements with your state wildlife authority. Source from reputable captive-breeding suppliers.

Millipedes require a moist, dark, burrowing environment that replicates the leaf litter and soil layers of their natural habitat. The minimum enclosure for one to two millipedes is 20 x 30 x 20 cm, with larger species and groups requiring proportionally more space.

Substrate is the most important element of the millipede enclosure. A deep layer (8-15 cm) of nutrient-rich substrate is essential — the millipede both lives in it and eats it. The best substrates are: mixed decomposing leaf litter (ideally from eucalyptus, wattle or other non-toxic Australian natives) combined with rotting hardwood and organic topsoil. Coconut coir can be mixed in to help retain moisture. Avoid substrates treated with pesticides, added fertilisers or chemical additives. Do not use substrates that are exclusively coconut coir as this has minimal nutritional value for millipedes.

Humidity must be maintained at 70-80%: the substrate should feel like a wrung-out sponge — moist throughout but never waterlogged. Mist one section of the enclosure regularly and allow the other end to be somewhat drier, creating a moisture gradient. A sealed or semi-sealed lid helps maintain humidity; some ventilation is still required to prevent stagnant conditions and fungal overgrowth.

Temperature: 22-28°C is appropriate for most Australian species. No supplemental heating is required in most Australian homes during warmer months. In winter, a low-wattage heat mat under one end of the enclosure, regulated by a thermostat, maintains adequate warmth. Provide cork bark, flat rocks or logs for additional daytime shelter.

Millipedes are detritivores and consume decomposing organic matter as their primary diet. The substrate itself is often the most important food source: a rich mix of decomposing leaves and rotting wood provides the bulk of their nutrition. Supplement the substrate diet with fresh soft vegetables — slices of carrot, cucumber, zucchini, sweet potato and leafy greens are all accepted. Remove uneaten fresh food before it moulds (within 24-48 hours). Do not offer heavily treated, pesticide-sprayed or artificially coloured produce. Avoid citrus.

Calcium is essential for millipede exoskeleton health and moulting. Provide calcium by: leaving crushed, clean eggshells or a small piece of cuttlebone permanently in the enclosure; offering calcium-rich vegetables; and ensuring the substrate contains adequate calcium from leaf and wood decomposition.

Millipedes do not need to actively hunt; place food in or on the surface of the substrate and the millipede will find it during nightly foraging. Fresh water droplets from misting the substrate surface are the primary drinking source; a shallow water dish with gravel or moss to prevent drowning is also appropriate for larger species.

Millipedes can be gently picked up by allowing them to walk onto an open flat hand rather than grasping or squeezing them. Their many legs create a distinctive gentle rippling sensation when walking across the hand. When first picked up they may coil into a defensive ball — hold the hand still and the millipede will typically uncurl and begin exploring within 30-60 seconds.

Be aware that millipedes produce defensive secretions from glands along their body segments. These secretions (quinones in most Australian species) can cause temporary skin discolouration or mild irritation in some individuals, and must not be allowed contact with the eyes or mouth. Always wash hands thoroughly after handling millipedes.

Millipedes are enriched primarily through environmental complexity and substrate variety. Providing a diverse substrate with multiple layers — leaf litter at the surface, rotting wood in the middle, and organic soil at the base — mimics the natural layered environment and encourages exploration and natural foraging behaviour across different depths.

Varying the supplemental food offered — different vegetable types on different days — provides dietary enrichment. Rearranging or adding new pieces of cork bark, flat rocks or wood during substrate refreshes provides novelty. For particularly active species (especially Spirostreptida), ensuring enough substrate depth for the millipede to fully burrow and disappear is essential for behavioural wellbeing.

Substrate problems: The most common cause of millipede health decline is inadequate substrate — too dry, too wet, nutritionally exhausted, or contaminated with pesticides, fungi or mites. A thriving enclosure has moist, rich, slightly decomposing substrate; a declining one becomes foul-smelling, visually degraded or infested with mites. Maintain substrate quality proactively.

Mite infestations: Substrate mites are common in high-humidity invertebrate enclosures. A few mites are normal and harmless; a heavy infestation can stress the millipede and degrade substrate quality. A full substrate replacement and enclosure disinfection resolves most infestations.

Failed moults: Most commonly caused by calcium deficiency or incorrect humidity. Ensure calcium is always available and substrate moisture is maintained. Never disturb a burrowed millipede.