Care Guide6 min read

Praying Mantis

Various species

Giant Rainforest Mantis (Hierodula majuscula): King Mantis
Grass Mantis (Archimantis latistyla): Large Brown Mantis
Monster Mantis (Archimantis monstrosa)
Garden Mantis (Orthodera ministralis): Green Mantis
Purple-winged Mantis (Tenodera australasiae)

Praying Mantis Care Guide
Lifespan
Adult lifespan: 6-9 months
Adult Size
up to 12cm
Care Level
Low to Medium
Diet

Live invertebrate prey (crickets, small woodies, blowflies, mealworms) of appropriate size; fed every 2-3 days or when the abdomen appears less rounded

Enclosure

Tall, well-ventilated enclosure (minimum height = 3x the mantis's body length) with climbing branches and a mesh or perforated lid for hanging during moults. One individual per enclosure after the 3rd moult — no exceptions

Temperament

Highly visual, alert and inquisitive. Praying mantises are among the most cognitively engaging insects available to keep

Where they come from

Natural History & Origin

Australia has approximately 160 described mantis species in around 40 genera, distributed across all states and territories and a wide range of habitats — from tropical rainforest and savanna woodland (giant rainforest mantis) to dry grassland and shrubland (grass and monster mantises) and suburban gardens (garden mantis). Australia's mantis fauna is one of the most diverse in the southern hemisphere.

Praying mantises are the only insects capable of turning their head 180 degrees to look directly behind them — a feature linked to their highly visual, ambush-predator lifestyle. They are sit-and-wait predators that detect prey primarily through movement, using binocular vision (from their large, forward-facing compound eyes) to judge distance precisely before striking with lightning speed.

The praying mantis life cycle is hemimetabolous: eggs are laid in a foamy ootheca (egg case) that hardens around a central twig or surface, hatching into nymphs that resemble small wingless adults. Most species undergo 5-9 moults before reaching adult winged form. Adult lifespan after the final moult is typically 3-9 months depending on species and temperature.

No licence is required to keep native Australian mantis species in most states; confirm requirements with your state wildlife authority. Exotic mantis species cannot legally be kept in Australia without appropriate permits. All captive animals should be sourced from reputable captive-breeding suppliers.

Get it right early

Tips for First-Time Owners

  1. 1 Enclosure height is the most critical dimension: at minimum 3 times the mantis's body length of clear vertical space below the ceiling for safe moulting. Measure your mantis and check the enclosure before each moult.
  2. 2 Remove ALL live prey from the enclosure immediately when a moult begins: a single cricket in the enclosure can injure or kill a moulting mantis and cause permanent deformities.
  3. 3 House mantises individually after the 3rd moult — there are no exceptions to this rule. Even well-fed mantises of the same species will eat each other.
  4. 4 Cool temperatures (within the appropriate range) extend lifespan; warm temperatures shorten it. The natural lifespan of a mantis is fixed at a certain number of moults, not a calendar duration — slower metabolism means more calendar time between moults and a longer life.
  5. 5 A mantis refusing food for several days is almost certainly preparing to moult, not ill. Fast for 3-5 days before a moult is normal; remove all prey and wait.
Setting up the habitat

Enclosure & Husbandry

Enclosure height is the single most critical dimension: a mantis moults by hanging upside down from the ceiling and must have at least 3 times its own body length of clear space below it to moult safely. A 10 cm mantis requires at least 30 cm of vertical clearance below the ceiling. If the mantis touches any surface during the moult, it may be unable to complete the shed and will die deformed or stuck.

Suitable enclosures: purpose-built ventilated plastic or mesh containers with cross-ventilation (mesh lid essential for hanging during moult); vertically oriented plastic tanks; commercial mesh-sided invertebrate enclosures. A mesh or perforated lid is essential as the mantis must cling to the ceiling to hang for moulting. For small nymphs, ventilated plastic cups with mesh lids are appropriate, upgraded as the mantis grows.

Temperature: most Australian species thrive at 22-30 deg C; Hierodula majuscula prefers 24-30 deg C. Room temperature is adequate for most species in most Australian homes during warmer months. In cooler months, a heat mat on one side of the enclosure regulated by a thermostat provides a thermal gradient. Never allow temperature to exceed 35 deg C. Humidity: 60-80% for tropical species (H. majuscula); 40-60% for grassland species (Archimantis). Mist one wall of the enclosure daily to provide drinking water; avoid waterlogging the substrate.

Substrate: a thin layer of coconut peat or paper towel is adequate. The substrate's primary function is moisture retention; mantises spend almost no time on the ground. Add several stout twigs or branches at varying heights for climbing and hunting. Never house two mantises together after the 3rd moult.

What to feed

Dietary Management

All live invertebrate prey — mantises detect food by movement and will not eat dead insects placed on the ground. Prey must be alive or, if freshly dead, presented directly to the mantis on feeding forceps with gentle movement to simulate life. Prey should be no larger than the width of the mantis's thorax.

Nymphs (early instars): small fruit flies (Drosophila), springtails or pinhead crickets. As size increases through moults, graduated to small crickets, small woodies (cockroaches), blowflies and mealworms. Large adult females (especially H. majuscula) can take large crickets, locusts, moths and similar prey. Do not offer bees, wasps or other venomous insects. Do not offer prey significantly larger than the mantis's thorax width — oversized prey may injure a mantis.

Feed every 2-3 days; a healthy mantis has a rounded, full-looking abdomen. Do not overfeed — an abdomen distended to the point of visible segment separation indicates overfeeding. A slightly lean abdomen is better than an overfull one, as overfeeding shortens lifespan. Remove uneaten prey after 30 minutes if not consumed; live prey left in the enclosure overnight can disturb or injure a moulting mantis. Mist the enclosure walls daily for drinking water.

Day-to-day interaction

Handling & Socialisation

Most Australian mantis species can be gently handled by adults who approach calmly from the front and allow the mantis to walk onto a hand voluntarily. Hierodula majuscula adults — particularly females — can be quite docile and are often comfortable free-roaming on a hand or arm for short periods. Juveniles are more skittish and may jump or bite if approached from above or behind.

The raptorial forelegs of large mantis species can deliver a sharp, claw-like grab that can break skin — a reflex grip rather than aggression, but one to be aware of. Move slowly, approach from the front, and let the mantis lead. Never handle during or immediately before a moult.

Did you know

Fun Facts

The praying mantis is the only insect known to possess true stereo (binocular) vision: the positioning and structure of its large, forward-facing compound eyes creates genuine parallax-based depth perception, allowing it to judge distances with remarkable precision during prey strikes — a visual system convergently evolved with vertebrate eyes.

During mating in many species including H. majuscula, the female frequently consumes the male — starting with the head — while mating is still in progress. The male continues to mate for minutes or hours after decapitation, as the nerve ganglia controlling mating behaviour are located in the abdomen rather than the head. The female's body nutrients from consuming the male enhance the development of the eggs she will subsequently lay.

Despite their fearsome reputation, mantises can be preyed upon by bats — and have evolved an ultrasound-detecting organ in the centre of their thorax (rather than in a paired structure as in most hearing insects) that allows them to detect bat sonar mid-flight and execute an evasive aerial spiral dive before being caught.

Keep them stimulated

Enrichment

Mantises are visually driven animals and enrichment centres on providing a stimulating visual environment and varied prey. Offering different prey species on different feeding occasions — flies, moths, crickets, woodies — provides variety that stimulates natural hunting behaviour. Providing a complex climbing structure of branches at multiple heights allows natural territorial and hunting positioning.

Adult female mantises can be offered supervised out-of-enclosure time on potted plants for observation, though this requires close supervision to prevent escape or injury. This is not encouraged for males as they are a flight risk. Introducing movement near the enclosure — a finger slowly moved outside the glass — engages the mantis's tracking behaviour and provides stimulation. Avoid overhandling; a mantis that is frequently disturbed between feeds and moults is stressed, not enriched.

What to watch for

Common Health Issues

Failed moults: The most common cause of death in captive mantises. Caused by: enclosure height insufficient for the mantis to hang and complete the moult freely; live prey disturbing the mantis during a moult; humidity too low (dry exoskeleton prevents clean shedding); mantis in poor nutritional condition. Prevent by maintaining adequate enclosure height (minimum 3x body length below the ceiling), removing all live prey before a moult, misting daily, and ensuring the mantis is adequately fed.

Dehydration: Mantises obtain all water by drinking droplets from misted surfaces. If daily misting is neglected, dehydration causes progressive lethargy, shrivelling of the abdomen and death. Mist one wall daily.

Overfeeding: A chronically overfull abdomen shortens lifespan. Monitor the abdomen size; if visibly distended skip a feeding day.

Cannibalism injuries: Any mantis housed with another after the 3rd moult risks injury or death from a companion. House individually without exception.

Fungal infections: Can develop in humid enclosures with inadequate ventilation or soiled substrate. Ensure cross-ventilation and replace substrate promptly if mould is visible.

Everything you need

Essentials Shopping List

Setup checklist

  • Ventilated plastic or mesh enclosure (minimum height = 3x mantis body length)
  • Mesh or perforated lid (essential for moulting grip)
  • Climbing branches and twigs at varying heights
  • Thin coconut peat or paper towel substrate
  • Misting bottle (daily use)
  • Digital thermometer and hygrometer
  • Heat mat and thermostat (cooler climates or winter)
  • Feeding forceps (long, blunt-tipped)
  • Live prey: crickets, small woodies, blowflies (appropriate size for instar)
  • Live fruit flies (Drosophila) for early nymphs
  • Separate enclosures for each individual (essential from 3rd moult)
  • Reptile-safe disinfectant for periodic enclosure cleaning
FAQ

Commonly Asked Questions

  • Can I keep two mantises together?

    Only in the very earliest nymph stages, and only with extreme caution. After the 3rd moult, mantises must be housed individually without exception. Cannibalism is not an aberration; it is a fundamental behavioural characteristic of the order Mantodea.

  • Why has my mantis stopped eating?

    The most common reason is an impending moult. A mantis will fast for 3-7 days before a moult. Remove all live prey, ensure enclosure height is adequate, and observe. If the mantis has recently moulted and still refuses food, check temperature and humidity.

  • How do I know if my mantis is a male or female?

    Count the abdominal segments from the underside: males have 8 segments, females have 6. Males are also typically slimmer and develop proportionally longer wings relative to their body length.

  • My mantis fell during its moult and is deformed.

    What can I do? Unfortunately little can be done for severe moult deformities. The mantis may survive with minor deformity; severe deformity usually prevents feeding. Prevent by ensuring adequate enclosure height and removing all prey before the moult begins.

  • Do I need a licence to keep a mantis in Australia?

    No licence is required for native mantis species in most states. Exotic mantis species cannot legally be kept without permits.

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