How to look after
a Bearded dragon
Learn more about the worlds most popular pet reptile!
A little about our pet bearded dragons
Thor is our hypomelanistic central bearded dragon, who lives here at Kellyville Pets in our awesome reptile department. Thor is very handsome and has fathered many beautiful clutches of bearded dragons during his time at Kellyville Pets.
Thor loves to eat! You'll often find him chasing crickets around his enclosure! Thor was born here at Kellyville Pets in 2019 and has been a part of the Kellyville Pets family ever since!
Thor
Hypomelanistic Central Bearded Dragon
Wilma is our hypomelanistic translucent leatherback central bearded dragon, who has only been with us here at Kellyville Pets for a year. Wilma is a beautiful, and very active beardy, who absolutely loves food (maybe even more than her neighbour Thor). Although she is an all around foodie, and definitely isn't the pickiest eater, her all time favourite snack is the wood roach. Those woodies don't stand a chance if Wilma is around!
Wilma
Hypomelanistic Translucent Leatherback Central Bearded Dragon
All native reptiles are protected in NSW and a Reptile Keeper's licence must be obtained from the Office of Environment and Heritage to own one as a pet.
fast facts
about the bearded dragon
| Lifespan | 10 - 15 years |
|---|---|
| Size | Pygmy: 20 - 25cm, Central: 40 - 60cm |
| Enclosure | 90x45x60cm (Pygmy) 120x45x60cm (Central) |
| Diet | Live insects, vegetables and pellets |
setting up your Bearded dragon
Housing
Bearded dragons are active, sun-loving reptiles that spend considerable time basking each day. Dragons are solitary animals and should be housed on their own, otherwise you will face dominance and aggression issues between dragons.
Enclosure
For one pygmy bearded dragon, a glass or timber enclosure of at least 90x45x60cm is recommended, however a central bearded dragon will require an enclosure of 120x45x60cm. It is important that the enclosure has sufficient ventilation as well as a secure, lockable door.
Inside the enclosure
The enclosure can be furnished with basking logs and rocks, a background, artificial plants and water and feed dishes. An absorbent substrate is also important such as a fine-grade reptile safe desert sand.
care
Bearded dragons have very specific set of requirements in regards to general care, however if all of these elements are provided they thrive in captivity.
Providing adequate temperature gradients within a dragon’s enclosure is essential for their health and wellbeing. Bearded dragons require a hot basking spot maintained between 38-42˚C. They should have access to an elevated piece of timber or rock ornament to allow them to bask within 30cm of the heat source. The cool end of the enclosure should be maintained between 24-26˚C and should not drop below 18-21˚C at night.
Temperatures should be monitored daily and must be regulated with the use of a good quality thermostat. Recommended sources of day heat include incandescent, halogen and mercury vapour globes along with a heat mat as a secondary source of heating. Carbon fibre and ceramic heat emitters are suitable for night-time heating.
Ultraviolet light (UV) plays an important role in a dragon’s growth and development. A 10-14% T5 UVB tube must be used as a source of artificial UV lighting in the dragon’s enclosure. Dragon’s should also have access to unfiltered, natural light at least once or twice a week. They also require a ‘day and night’ cycle with heat and UV lights running for approximately 10-12 hours each day, set on a timer.
It is important to maintain high standards of cleanliness and hygiene within the dragon’s enclosure. Daily ‘spot checks’ should be carried out, sifting substrate to remove any faeces, shed skin or uneaten food. A full substrate change should be carried out every 2-3 months (depending on what substrate is used) and the enclosure thoroughly cleaned with a reptile-safe disinfectant.
food
Bearded dragons are omnivores and feed on a range of live insects and plant matter. In captivity bearded dragons should be fed a variety of both live foods and fruits and vegetables. Hatchling and juvenile dragons will generally consume more live food than vegetables with sub-adult and adult dragons consuming more vegetables.
Live foods for bearded dragons include; crickets, woodies, black soldier fly larvae, mealworms (in moderation) and silkworms. All live foods should be dusted with a calcium and multivitamin powder before being offered. Live insects should be no larger than the space between the lizard’s eyes. Fruits and vegetables for bearded dragons that can be offered include; kale, endive, parsley, Asian greens, apple, carrot, beans, broccoli, zucchini and squash. Commercially available lizard pellets can also be mixed through the chopped fruits and vegetables to provide extra nutrition to the dragon. Juvenile dragons should be fed daily (live food twice daily for very young hatchlings) and adults can be offered food every second day.
Fresh water should be available to the dragon at all times and changed daily. Young hatchlings also enjoy a very light misting of water on hot days in summer and often drink droplets of water off ornaments in the enclosure.
Health
Common health issues in Bearded Dragons
Intestinal Parasites (worms): Bearded Dragons are susceptible to worms, including the potentially fatal coccidiosis organism. Faecal checks and worming can be carried out by an experienced reptile veterinarian.
Dysecdysis (Abnormal Shedding): Low humidity levels can sometimes result in a dragon having an ‘incomplete’ shed.
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): Calcium or vitamin D3 deficiency as a result of incorrect diet and/or lack of or incorrect UV lighting.
Red Flags
Is your Bearded Dragon showing any of the signs of disease or illness? If yes, please consult your reptile vet.
Loss of appetite
Diarrhoea
Lethargy
Retained skin around toes or tail tip
Abnormal movements
Disorientation
Twitching/tremors
