Rabbit

The domestic rabbit is descended from the European Wild Rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus), native to the Iberian Peninsula and southwestern France. Domestication is believed to have begun in monasteries in France around 600 CE, though rabbits had been kept in captivity for food for much longer. They were introduced to Australia by European settlers in the late 18th century, and feral rabbit populations subsequently became one of Australia's most significant environmental and agricultural pest problems.

Despite the ecological complications of feral rabbits in Australia, domestic rabbits are entirely legal as pets in all states and territories except Queensland, where the keeping of domestic rabbits as pets is illegal under biosecurity legislation due to the risk of feral establishment. In all other Australian states, no specific permit is required to keep domestic rabbits as companion animals.

Domestic rabbits are intelligent, social and capable of forming strong bonds with their human carers. Many can be litter trained and will thrive as free-roaming indoor companions. They are active, curious and genuinely entertaining to live with, but require more space, attention and veterinary care than many people anticipate when first considering them as pets.

The general rule for rabbit housing is: the bigger, the better. The minimum hutch size for a small breed such as a Netherland Dwarf or Mini Lop is at least 120cm L x 60cm W x 60cm H; medium breeds such as a Rex or Holland Lop require at least 150cm L. Crucially, any hutch must allow the rabbit to stand up on its hind legs without touching the roof, and hop at least three full lengths. An attached exercise run of at least 1.2m x 0.6m, accessible at all times or for several hours daily, is strongly recommended.

Hutches should be weatherproof, sturdy enough to withstand predator pressure from dogs and foxes, and positioned away from direct sunlight, rain and cold drafts. Mosquito netting over the hutch (particularly important for outdoor hutches) protects against mosquitoes, which can transmit Calicivirus and Myxomatosis. Bedding options include straw (best for wire-based hutches) or kiln-dried wood shavings (appropriate for solid-based hutches). A dedicated hide within the hutch allows the rabbit to feel secure.

Rabbits can be successfully litter trained and many owners keep them as free-roaming indoor rabbits, which allows significant environmental enrichment and social interaction. A litter tray placed in the rabbit's preferred toileting corner, filled with recycled paper litter or hay, and moved with soiled material to reinforce the association, establishes litter habits quickly in most rabbits. All electrical cables must be protected or removed from any rabbit-accessible area.

Rabbit nutrition should consist of three components: hay, pellets and fresh vegetables. Hay must be available at all times and should constitute approximately 70% of the total diet — it is absolutely essential for gut motility, dental health (rabbits' teeth grow continuously throughout their lives) and preventing potentially fatal gastrointestinal stasis. Western Timothy or Oaten Hay is the recommended staple for adult rabbits; Lucerne (Alfalfa) hay is higher in protein and calcium and is appropriate for young rabbits under 7 months and nursing does, but should not be the primary hay for healthy adults.

Quality rabbit pellets — such as a quality timothy hay-based rabbit pellet for adults or a quality Lucerne-based rabbit pellet for rabbits under 12 months — should be offered in a ceramic bowl. Adult rabbits should receive approximately 1/4 cup of pellets per 2.5 kg of body weight per day. Avoid muesli-style mixes, which allow selective feeding and nutritional imbalance.

Fresh leafy greens should be offered daily. Excellent choices include dark leafy greens (romaine lettuce, bok choy, kale, endive, dandelion, parsley and fresh herbs). A small amount of carrot, apple (no seeds) and other fruit can be given as occasional treats. Never feed iceberg lettuce, celery stalks, rhubarb, potato, tomato leaves, avocado, or onion. Provide a salt lick mineral stone and wood chews for dental and mineral enrichment. Fresh water must be available at all times and can be offered in either a water bottle or a heavy ceramic bowl. Some rabbits have a preference for one over the other, so providing both can be beneficial. Water should be checked and refreshed daily to ensure it remains clean and accessible.

Rabbit temperament varies significantly between breeds and individuals. Despite their small size, Netherland Dwarfs are often more active and independent than many other rabbit breeds and, while they can be very affectionate, many prefer interaction on their own terms rather than being picked up and cuddled. Mini Lops are often cited as among the friendliest breeds; Lionheads and Rex rabbits are typically gentle and curious. Rabbits communicate through body language — a thumping back foot indicates alarm; a flopped-over position with relaxed body indicates deep contentment; binkying (energetic jumping and twisting mid-air) is a clear expression of happiness; and tooth grinding (purring) during gentle petting indicates contentment.

Many rabbits do not enjoy being picked up — this is a normal instinct for a prey animal and should be respected. The safest and most welfare-positive approach is to interact with rabbits at ground level and allow them to approach of their own accord, rather than reaching down to grab them. When lifting is necessary, always support the full body — one hand under the chest and the other firmly supporting the hindquarters. Never hold a rabbit on its back, which can cause cardiac arrest in extreme cases. Never hold by the ears or scruff.

Children should always be supervised when handling rabbits and taught to sit on the floor rather than standing while holding the animal. Most rabbits become significantly calmer and more interactive when their human carer spends time at their level rather than looming over them.

Rabbits are active, intelligent animals that need both physical and mental stimulation to thrive. Daily exercise outside the hutch in a secure exercise run or rabbit-proofed indoor space is essential — at least three to four hours per day is recommended for physical health and psychological wellbeing. Tunnels, cardboard boxes and paper bags provide exploration and hiding opportunities; untreated wicker baskets, willow balls and wooden chews satisfy the natural need to chew.

Provide hay in a variety of ways — stuffed into hay racks, scattered on the floor, or presented in a hay ball toy — to encourage natural foraging behaviour throughout the day. Scatter pellets and vegetable pieces in different locations in the exercise area. Many rabbits enjoy puzzle feeders where food is hidden in boxes or containers. Bonded rabbit companions provide the most profound form of enrichment — the social interaction, mutual grooming and companionship of a bonded pair supports welfare in ways that human interaction alone cannot fully replicate.

Gastrointestinal (GI) Stasis: The most common and potentially fatal condition in domestic rabbits. Occurs when gut movement slows or stops, most often triggered by insufficient hay, stress, dehydration, or pain. Signs include reduced or absent droppings, loss of appetite, bloating and hunched posture. GI stasis is a medical emergency — seek veterinary attention immediately. Prevent by ensuring hay is available at all times.

Dental disease (malocclusion): Continuously growing teeth that become misaligned lead to inability to eat and drooling. Regular vet checks, adequate hay and appropriate chews support dental health.

Calicivirus (RHDV): A fatal viral disease attacking internal organs; vaccination is the only protection. Keep vaccination up to date and use mosquito netting on outdoor hutches. Myxomatosis: A fatal mosquito-transmitted viral disease; no vaccine is available in Australia. Mosquito netting on outdoor hutches is the primary preventative measure.

Uterine cancer: Extremely common in undesexed female rabbits over two years of age — desexing of does is strongly recommended for this reason alone.

Flystrike: Flies can lay eggs in soiled fur around the bottom, particularly in summer; keep the hutch clean and check the rabbit's bottom daily in warm weather.