
Australian Tarantulas/Bird-Eating Spiders
Various species

Natural History & Origin
Tips for First-Time Owners
- 1 Remove all prey items within 12–24 hours if not consumed — a cricket or cockroach left in the enclosure with a pre-moulting spider is one of the most common and serious causes of injury and death in captive tarantulas.
- 2 Never disturb a fasting spider, and never attempt to force-feed — a tarantula that is not eating is either approaching a moult, post-moult, or stressed; forced feeding causes serious harm.
- 3 Provide a water dish at all times and ensure the lower substrate retains some moisture for burrowing species — dehydration is a slow and often unnoticed killer.
- 4 Spiderlings (slings) require the same care principles as adults, but at a much smaller scale — appropriately tiny prey, secure micro-enclosures, and extreme caution during handling or transfers due to their speed and fragility.
- 5 Confirm your state's current licensing requirements before purchasing — most commonly kept Australian species do not require a licence in most states, but requirements vary and can apply to specific species.
Enclosure & Husbandry
Dietary Management
Handling & Socialisation

Our Available Critters
Fun Facts
Australian bird-eating spiders were the first spiders in the world documented using stridulation — rubbing their chelicerae (fangs) together to produce a rasping, hissing sound — as a defensive warning. The 'whistling' or 'barking' name refers to this behaviour, which is loud enough to be heard across a room.
Female Australian tarantulas are extraordinarily long-lived for invertebrates — some individuals have been recorded in captivity for over 30 years, outliving many vertebrate pets and making them among the longest-lived spiders on Earth.
Spiderlings (slings) are produced in egg sacs that may contain hundreds of eggs — a single egg sac from a large Phlogius female can produce 100–200 or more spiderlings, each beginning life as a tiny, fully formed spider that must find its own shelter and food from the moment of dispersal.
Enrichment
Common Health Issues
Essentials Shopping List
Setup checklist
- Secure enclosure with escape-proof, lockable lid — sized to the species (sling: deli cup 500 ml–1L; juvenile: 2–5L; adult Selenotypus/Phlogius: 10–20L minimum)
- Deep substrate — chemical-free topsoil/coco peat and coarse sand mix (15–20 cm depth for burrowing adults)
- Cork bark hide or half-log
- Shallow water dish
- Water dechlorinator
- Long feeding tongs (25+ cm)
- Soft paintbrush (for guiding without direct contact)
- Micro-container for sling housing
- Live cricket supply
- Live wood cockroach (woodies) supply
- Small mealworms (for spiderlings)
- Feeder insect gut-load food
- Fine-mist spray bottle (for sling humidity management)
- Torch (for enclosure inspection)
- First aid plan (in case of bite)
Shop the Essentials
Springtails Clean Up Crew
Isopod Clean Up Crew
Live Silkworms
Reptile One Central Australian Desert Sand
Live Crickets - Bio Supplies - Standard Tub
Pisces Aqua Load
Critter's Comfort Fine 20L - Previously Kritter's Crumble
Critter's Comfort Coarse 20L - Previously Kritter's Crumble
Commonly Asked Questions
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Are Australian tarantulas dangerous?
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What is the difference between a spiderling and an adult?
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How do I know if my spider is about to moult?
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Can I keep multiple Australian tarantulas together?
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Do I need a licence to keep Australian tarantulas?
Read about other species
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Need help?Our specialists are in-store every day to help with set up, licensing and feeding.
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