Care Guide6 min read

Mouse

Mus musculus domesticus

Domestic Mouse · Fancy Mouse · Pet Mouse

Lifespan
1.5-3 years
Adult Size
6-10cm (not including tail)
Care Level
Low to Medium
Diet

Quality mouse pellets or blocks (a quality rat/mouse-specific pellet) as the dietary foundation, with daily fresh vegetables and occasional seed or grain treats

Enclosure

Wire or glass/acrylic enclosure (minimum 60cm W x 30cm D x 40cm H for two to three mice) with deep bedding for burrowing, a running wheel, hides and toys

Temperament

Quick, alert and entertaining. Females calmer than males. Best appreciated as an active, observational companion

Where they come from

Natural History & Origin

The domestic mouse is descended from the wild house mouse, which originated in India and spread globally as a commensal species alongside human expansion. Mice were kept in captivity in China and Japan as early as the 12th century CE, where selective breeding for unusual coat colours and patterns began — the precursor to today's 'fancy mouse' hobby. Laboratory use of mice beginning in the 19th and early 20th centuries further refined domestication, and domestic mice as companion animals have been popular ever since.

Mice are small, quick, inquisitive and endlessly entertaining. They are most active at night and in the early morning, which makes them particularly engaging pets for owners who are home in the evening. They are social animals and females in particular are best kept in pairs or small groups; males can be kept together if introduced as young litter-mates, but two unrelated adult males will usually fight.

Mice are one of the most accessible and affordable small pets available, making them an excellent first pet for children with appropriate supervision, or for adults who enjoy observational animal keeping.

Get it right early

Tips for First-Time Owners

  1. 1 A running wheel is not optional — mice run several kilometres per night in the wild and a solid, appropriately sized wheel is essential for their physical and psychological health. Always use a solid-surface wheel to prevent toe and tail injuries.
  2. 2 Deep bedding of 10–15 cm allows natural burrowing behaviour — this is one of the most important welfare improvements available in mouse housing and is easily achieved with any standard cage setup.
  3. 3 Never keep two unrelated adult male mice together — they will almost certainly fight, causing serious injury. Female mice are significantly more sociable and tolerant of companions.
  4. 4 Avoid pine and cedar shavings — the aromatic oils they release are directly harmful to mouse respiratory health. Paper-based bedding or kiln-dried aspen shavings are the appropriate alternatives.
  5. 5 Mice are most active at night and in the early morning hours — position the cage in a room where nighttime activity noise (the running wheel) will not disturb sleep.
Setting up the habitat

Enclosure & Husbandry

Mice are active, agile and territorial, and their enclosure should reflect this. A minimum enclosure size for two to three females is 60cm W x 30cm D x 40cm H; larger is always better, as mice use every centimetre of their space. Wire cages with small bar spacing (no more than 0.7cm) allow good ventilation but must have a solid, tray-based floor — wire floors are harmful to mouse feet. Alternatively, glass or acrylic tanks with a well-ventilated wire mesh lid provide good visibility and prevent escape.

Mice are burrow-happy animals and require a deep layer of bedding — at minimum 10–15cm of substrate — to allow natural burrowing behaviour. Suitable bedding materials include recycled paper pulp bedding (recycled paper pulp bedding), kiln-dried aspen shavings, or a mixture of both. Avoid pine and cedar shavings, which contain aromatic oils harmful to mouse respiratory health. Hay can be added to the bedding layer for nesting material.

Essential cage fittings include at minimum one solid-surface running wheel (a silent spinner of appropriate size — 15–17 cm minimum diameter to prevent spinal damage), one or two small hides or igloos, a sipper water bottle, a small ceramic or glass food bowl, and a variety of toys and climbing structures. Nest building material such as torn paper strips or hay should always be available. The cage should be spot-cleaned every two to three days and fully cleaned once a week.

What to feed

Dietary Management

Mice are omnivores and require a varied, nutritionally complete diet. The dietary foundation should be a quality mouse or rat pellet that provides complete nutrition and prevents the selective feeding that occurs with seed-mix-only diets. Pellets should constitute approximately 50–60% of the total diet and be available at all times or offered in a measured daily portion.

Supplement daily with small pieces of fresh vegetables — broccoli, capsicum, corn, carrot, peas, leafy greens and cucumber are all suitable. A small piece of fruit such as apple (no seeds), blueberry or banana can be offered sparingly as an occasional treat. Protein can be offered 2–3 times per week in the form of a small piece of cooked chicken, a tiny portion of boiled egg, or a small dog biscuit.

A small mixed seed and grain treat mix can be scattered in the cage for foraging enrichment, but should not replace the pellet base. Never feed chocolate, caffeine, raw dried beans, sticky foods, very salty or processed human food, or raw potato. Fresh water must be available at all times via a sipper bottle mounted on the cage — bowls are quickly contaminated with bedding and food in a mouse enclosure.

Day-to-day interaction

Handling & Socialisation

Mice have bright, active personalities and, when well-socialised, will readily run onto a hand, investigate unfamiliar objects with evident curiosity, and engage with a wide range of enrichment activities. Females are generally calmer and more tolerant of handling than males. Mice are primarily observational pets — their speed and size mean they are enjoyed as much through watching as through direct contact, and they provide near-constant activity and interest during their active periods.

The best way to pick up a mouse is to scoop it up gently in a cupped hand — place the flat hand in the enclosure and allow the mouse to walk on of its own accord, then lift slowly and smoothly. If a mouse is jumpy or nervous, it can be picked up quickly and briefly by the base of the tail (close to the body), transferred immediately onto a flat surface or the opposite hand, then handled normally. Never leave a mouse dangling by its tail, as this causes injury and significant distress.

Handle mice regularly to maintain tameness. Short, calm sessions of five to ten minutes are more effective than infrequent long ones. Always handle close to a surface — mice are very fast and a fall from height can be fatal. Children should always be supervised and taught to handle mice in a seated position, close to the floor or a table surface.

Did you know

Fun Facts

Mice build elaborate nest structures from available material — paper strips, hay, cotton wool and similar soft fibres are collected, transported and arranged into remarkably complex, insulated sleeping chambers. Providing adequate nesting material is one of the simplest and most impactful welfare improvements a mouse keeper can make.

Mice use ultrasonic vocalisations (beyond the range of human hearing) for complex social communication. Males produce elaborate 'songs' in the ultrasonic range when in the presence of females — structured vocal sequences that bear some resemblance to birdsong in their patterning.

The domestic mouse is one of the most genetically studied organisms in biological research — mice share approximately 85% of protein-coding gene sequences with humans, making them invaluable models for understanding human disease. This biological similarity is reflected in the surprising range of conditions mice and humans share, from obesity to anxiety disorders.

Keep them stimulated

Enrichment

Mice are remarkably active and curious and benefit greatly from environmental variety. A solid-surface running wheel is one of the most important enrichment items — mice may run several kilometres per night on a wheel and it is essential for physical and psychological health. Always use a solid-surface, appropriately sized wheel; mesh or spoke wheels can trap and injure feet and tails.

Provide a rotation of climbing structures (ladders, ropes, hanging tubes), cardboard tunnels and boxes, and small foraging items (scatter a pinch of seed mix through the bedding, hide treats in paper bags or folded cardboard) to encourage searching behaviour. Nest-building is an important natural behaviour — always have paper strips, hay or tissue squares available for the mice to collect and arrange. Introducing novel safe objects — a small empty container, a new hide shape, a foraging ball — during cage cleans maintains environmental novelty. Female mice in groups engage in social play and mutual grooming that is itself a meaningful form of natural enrichment.

What to watch for

Common Health Issues

Respiratory infections: Mice are susceptible to bacterial and viral upper respiratory infections, often presenting as laboured breathing, clicking or wheezing sounds, sneezing and reduced activity. Damp bedding, poor ventilation and overcrowding increase risk. Seek veterinary attention for any mouse showing respiratory symptoms.

Mites and lice: External parasites cause excessive scratching, hair loss and skin irritation. Treat with a veterinary-recommended small animal parasite treatment and replace all bedding.

Tumours: Mice are prone to developing tumours, particularly mammary tumours in females. Regular handling allows early detection.

Wet tail (Proliferative ileitis): A bacterial intestinal disease causing severe diarrhoea, lethargy and dehydration — more common under stress or in animals recently moved; seek veterinary attention promptly.

Barbering: A stress or boredom behaviour where dominant individuals chew the whiskers and fur of cage-mates; increase cage size, enrichment and review group dynamics if observed.

Everything you need

Essentials Shopping List

Setup checklist

  • Wire or glass/acrylic enclosure — minimum 60 x 30 x 40cm for 2–3 females
  • Wire bar spacing no larger than 0.7 cm OR glass/acrylic tank with ventilated wire lid
  • Deep bedding (10–15 cm) — paper-based (recycled paper pulp bedding) or kiln-dried aspen shavings
  • Hay (for nesting material and bedding layer)
  • Paper strips or tissue squares (nesting material)
  • Solid-surface running wheel — minimum 15–17 cm diameter, silent spinner preferred
  • One to two small hides or igloos
  • Sipper water bottle
  • Small ceramic or glass food bowl
  • Quality mouse or rat pellets
  • Daily fresh vegetables (small portions)
  • Seed and grain mix (foraging treat)
  • Ropes, ladders, climbing tubes (rotating selection)
  • Cardboard tubes and small boxes
  • Small animal-safe cage disinfectant
  • Travel carrier
FAQ

Commonly Asked Questions

  • Can I keep a male and female mouse together?

    A male and female housed together will breed prolifically — mice can produce litters every three weeks. Unless breeding is specifically intended, always keep same-sex groups. Two unrelated adult males should not be housed together as they will typically fight.

  • My mouse is making clicking sounds when it breathes — is this serious?

    Yes — clicking or wheezing sounds during breathing indicate a respiratory infection, which can deteriorate quickly in small animals. Seek veterinary attention promptly.

  • How often does the cage need cleaning

    Spot-clean every two to three days and do a full clean once a week. Leave a small amount of old bedding in the replaced cage to maintain scent familiarity and reduce stress after cleaning.

  • Are mice good pets for young children?

    They can be, with appropriate supervision and realistic expectations — mice are fast, fragile and not well-suited to being gripped or restrained. They are better suited to children who enjoy observing and interacting with animals than those expecting a cuddly, easily held pet.

  • Do I need a licence to keep mice in Australia?

    No licence is required in any Australian state or territory for domestic mice. Source from a reputable pet shop or breeder to ensure healthy, well-socialised animals.

Need help?Our specialists are in-store every day to help with set up, licensing and feeding.

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