Freshwater Shrimp

Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) are native to Taiwan, inhabiting streams and ponds with moderate to hard water and broadly neutral pH. They are the most beginner-friendly shrimp in the hobby, extremely hardy and prolific breeders. Their ease of care and wide colour range have made them the entry point for most shrimp keepers.

Crystal Shrimp (Caridina cantonensis) are native to rocky, fast-flowing streams in southern China with soft, acidic, oxygen-rich water. They are significantly more demanding and best suited to experienced shrimp keepers.

Freshwater shrimp have become one of the most popular aquarium animals globally. A thriving shrimp colony in a well-planted nano tank is one of the most peaceful and captivating aquarium experiences available.

The most important factor in shrimp keeping is a fully cycled, biologically mature aquarium. Shrimp are highly sensitive to ammonia and nitrite: even trace levels can cause rapid death. The tank must be fully cycled (minimum 4-6 weeks) and ideally matured with live plants for several months before shrimp are introduced. No fish that will eat shrimp.

The two genera have distinctly different water chemistry requirements.

For Neocaridina: minimum 20-40 litres; temperature 18-27ºC; pH 6.8-7.8; GH 6-10; KH 2-6. Standard aquarium substrates are appropriate. For Caridina: minimum 40-60 litres; temperature 20-24ºC; pH 6.0-6.8; GH 4-6; KH 0-2. Active substrate (aqua soil) and remineralised RO water are typically required.

Both groups require gentle filtration. Sponge filters are ideal as they provide biological filtration without risk of sucking up shrimp or juveniles. Fine mesh guards on any canister or powerhead intake are essential. Most fish will eat shrimp: suitable tank mates are limited to very small, peaceful species such as microrasboras, small tetras and otocinclus catfish.

Freshwater shrimp are primarily algae grazers and biofilm feeders, spending much of their time grazing the thin layer of algae, bacteria and microorganisms on every tank surface. This natural biofilm grazing is a critical component of the shrimp diet that cannot be replaced by commercial foods alone.

Supplement the natural diet with quality sinking shrimp foods, algae wafers, and blanched vegetables (zucchini, spinach, carrot, cucumber, sweet potato, peas). Offer a small amount of food every one to two days and remove uneaten food within 24 hours. Do not overfeed: excess food is a primary cause of water quality problems in shrimp tanks.

Shrimp require minerals for moulting and exoskeleton health. Calcium and magnesium are particularly important. Calcium-rich foods (cuttlebone, shrimp-specific mineral supplements) support healthy moulting. Caridina require remineralised RO water with specific GH/KH targets.

A colony of Cherry Shrimp in a planted aquarium, particularly when juveniles are visible in the moss and plants, is one of the most peaceful and captivating sights in the aquarium hobby.

Shrimp must not be handled: they are delicate and extremely fragile out of water. Transfers should use a small container or fine-mesh net with minimal time out of water. Acclimatise shrimp very slowly using a drip acclimation method when transferring between tanks with different chemistry.

The planted aquarium environment is itself the most important form of enrichment for shrimp. Dense planting with diverse species (java moss, christmas moss, Anubias, baby tears, stem plants) creates the varied surface coverage allowing full natural grazing and exploring behaviour. Adding botanicals such as dried Indian almond leaves, alder cones and dried oak leaves provides additional biofilm surfaces and a naturalistic aesthetic.

Failed moulting: The most common cause of death. Caused by insufficient minerals (inadequate GH), rapid parameter changes or copper contamination. A shrimp found dead while partially stuck in its old exoskeleton is almost always a mineral deficiency issue. Maintain appropriate GH, provide calcium-rich foods and ensure consistent water parameters.

Copper toxicity: Trace copper kills shrimp rapidly. Use copper-neutralising water conditioner and never use copper-based fish medications.

Bacterial infections: Can spread rapidly through a colony under poor water quality.

Parasites (scutariella, vorticella): Occasional ectoparasites visible on shrimp; treat with salt dips or shrimp-safe antiparasitic treatment under guidance.